Interview – Giving Artisans and Young Watchmakers a Platform – In Conversation with Baudouin Van Es of Tad Kozh When Baudouin van Es set out to establish Tad Kozh, the goal was not simply to produce another limited-edition luxury timepiece. Instead, it was conceived as an incubator for heritage craftsmanship and a springboard for the next generation of independent watchmakers. By pairing independent manufactures with master artisans – giving those craftspeople full artistic carte […] https://monochrome-watches.com/giving-artisans-and-young-watchmakers-a-platform-in-conversation-with-baudouin-van-es-of-tad-kozh/ #tadkozh #baudouinvan #giving #instead #rss #feeds #linksharing #qwibbit

Farer Introduces the Stratton II Moonphase Maybe “trend” was always the wrong way to frame the watch industry’s collective obsession with stone dials? I don’t know about you, but I certainly feel like we might have reached a point where the stone dial is essentially just another colorway. Just as brands are expected to offer dials in blue, black, and white, perhaps we’ve reached that point where it should just be expected that they’ll offer an option (or several) in stone as well. I like the look of a stone dial, but I admit I’m getting quite bored of seeing them invade my inbox on a daily basis. This is the perspective of a guy with a very particular view on all the stone dial action. I’m not a casual observer. I work in the industry and I see, at least to some extent, how the nuts and bolts of the business works, and at the moment brands are simply cashing in on an unprecedented interest in stone (and mother of pearl) dials. Stone dials were never actually “rare” but they felt special before this boom because they were so infrequently used. Access to these dials is now virtually unlimited and, presumably, pretty affordable. So the rush continues, to the point I think where it’s just a static part of our ecosystem. And it’s that environment in which the newest member of the Farer Moonphase collection arrives. This is the Stratton II, the latest edition of what Farer says is their most popular moonphase model. The centerpiece (literally) of the Stratton II is a new moonphase disc made in Switzerland by the firm AJS Productions. AJS uses a unique process using precision laser etching to create a photorealistic image of the moon for the dial of the Stratton II. According to Farer, multiple layers of paint and Super-LumiNova are etched into the disc, which is just 6mm in diameter. When it comes to the representation of the moon for a moonphase complication, people tend to have strong preferences. There are basically three ways to depict the moon: an accurate to the eye representation like we see here with the Stratton II, a whimsical take like you’d see with Naoya Hida (think a smiling or winking moon and you get the idea), or a completely abstract moon, where the heavenly body itself is not depicted on the dial (ochs und junior comes to mind here). Personally, I favor a whimsical take, so I’m not exactly predisposed to a design like this. But I will say that a photorealistic moon makes a ton of sense on this watch thanks to the stone dial being used. Farer is using black Eisenkiessel here, a type of quartz stone with prominent iron compunts that run through the material to give it texture and some drama. The stone takes on a gold-brown hue, which is a great match to the gold tone dial and moonphase disc. The Stratton II’s cushion case measures 39mm in diameter and 11.8mm thick. It’s relatively short from lug to lug, at 45mm. Water resistance is rated to 50 meters, and the watch runs on the Sellita SW288-1, an Elaboré Grade movement with around 45 hours of power reserve. As fatigued as I am with the onslaught of new stone dials coming to market, I have to give credit to Farer for at least pulling together a coherent design that doesn’t feel dashed off or slapped together. Even though it’s not to my own specific taste (like I said, give me a smiling, cartoon-like moon, please), it’s abundantly clear that someone took their time in designing this watch, and thought through all of the critical details. The Farer Stratton II has a retail price of $2,175. Farer Images from this post: The post Farer Introduces the Stratton II Moonphase appeared first on Worn & Wound. https://wornandwound.com/farer-introduces-the-stratton-ii-moonphase/ #stone #moonphase #farer #ajs #ajsproductions #naoyahida #rss #feeds #linksharing #qwibbit

Introducing – Citizen Brings Damascus Steel and Forged Carbon to a new Series 8 GMT With its Series 8 collection of mechanical watches, Citizen has been delivering rather impressive models over the years, with the GMT collection being possibly the most appealing of them. Not only is it powered by a true GMT automatic movement (something rare in this price range), but Citizen has dared to bring singular designs, colours […] https://monochrome-watches.com/citizen-series-8-gmt-damascus-steel-and-forged-carbon-nb6092-01e-introducing-price/ #damascussteel #forgedcarbon #bringsdamascus #citizenbrings #series #gmt #rss #feeds #linksharing #qwibbit

What is a Microbrand? What is a microbrand? I think about this a lot, never more than in the days and weeks after a Windup, and particularly the days and weeks following the New York City version of our fair, which is the largest and most diverse in terms of the types of brands represented. We often hear people describe Windup as “the microbrand show” or something similar. Not in a pejorative way, necessarily, but as a way to distinguish it from an event like WatchTime (which is more focused on traditional luxury brands) or IndiesNYC (which, yup, is focused on “indies,” another hard to define term when you step back and actually try). I don’t have an answer for what a “microbrand” actually is. Defining it gets more complicated when you consider all of the other small niches that pop up in the space. Terms like “micro-indie” and “challenger brand” have been thrown around a lot in the last few years, seemingly as an attempt to subvert a negative connotation with the microbrand moniker. But these terms have their own issues. Micro-indie implies, at least in how this publication has used it, that an element of the watch has some handmade craft or traditional watchmaking techniques behind it, but maybe uses a shortcut (like a case made in China, or an off-the-shelf movement) to save money. Not all brands and makers want to be seen as making compromises, even though essentially everyone short of, I dunno, Roger W. Smith and Philippe Dufour are making something about the process a little bit easier on themselves. Challenger brand is a term with some potential, but it implies, I think, that a brand desires growth in a way I’m not sure all do. Who is the micro or indie brand “challenging” exactly, and for what? I don’t think most of these brands, even the most ambitious and successful, actually hope to compete directly with the largest conglomerate owned watch brands. They aspire, I think, to be an alternative, not to overtake or replace. Microbrand has always been a label that’s somewhat elastic, both in how it’s applied and how it’s perceived and metabolized by the watch community. No doubt that when you use or hear the term, it conjures something. Depending on when you entered the hobby, or what your initial experiences with a microbrand were like, it might imply a particular design aesthetic or level of workmanship. To me, what the microbrand label has come to represent more than anything is the connective tissue of the community itself. That’s the side effect of a catch-all term – it wraps everything into one group. Overall, I think that’s a positive for the watch space in the sense that so much of the success any one brand experiences hinges on the entire market rising. Watch collectors interested in microbrands, it seems, want variety and breadth of choice. One microbrand leads to another, and another. To be interested in one microbrand doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll be interested in another, but it does mean you have a certain level of curiosity, and perhaps a predisposition to discovering and embracing a small maker. When a brand embraces the label of a microbrand, they are identifying with so many others, entering an enthusiast community, tacitly acknowledging we’re all in this together. And that’s why, I admit, it bothers me a little when I see a brand actively reject the “micro” designation. I mean, I get it – no one wants to feel small. But a look around the Windup fair and similar events reveals an enormous, and inclusive, community that is greater than the sum of its parts. There was a time when “microbrand” was often used dismissively, to minimize the significance of a brand, a watch, or the community itself. That attitude still certainly exists in small pockets here and there, but it’s not a mainstream view. When the term is used today, I almost always hear it in a positive context, and as a way of tying a brand or a watch to the people who take part in the hobby. What’s most interesting to me is that the terminology we use to describe these brands – micro, indie, or something else – no longer really has much to do with how the brand actually operates as a business. A decade ago, the use of the term microbrand likely would have you thinking of a very specific type of small watch brand, operating on a small scale, run by a single person (or maybe two or three), using Kickstarter or other crowdfunding platforms. Today, microbrands cover a huge range of price points, production methods, and sometimes incorporate traditional and increasingly ambitious watchmaking craft. The label means a lot more culturally than it does in describing a business, not that it was ever particularly sufficient for that anyway. Paradoxically, as this language becomes less useful to articulate how a brand actually operates, it becomes more meaningful in how it describes the communities that take part in the hobby. The conversation then, about what it means to be a microbrand, isn’t really about size, or the number of watches being produced. And it’s not even really about price, although certainly once you start hitting a price point where most would consider a watch a luxury purchase, the term begins to lose some utility. What it’s actually about is an ethos, and identifying yourself with a movement and a culture. Maybe it’s the Windup hangover talking, but I don’t think it’s an exaggeration to say that the microbrand boom has been one of the most consequential and beneficial periods in our hobby in a generation. Why wouldn’t a brand want to be a part of that? The post What is a Microbrand? appeared first on Worn & Wound. https://wornandwound.com/what-is-a-microbrand/ #rss #feeds #linksharing #qwibbit

Introducing – The Habring² x SJX Chrono Felix Perpetual “Star” Our friends at SJX, the Singapore-based watch magazine founded by journalist Su Jiaxian, are back at it with yet another collaboration watch with Habring², the Austrian independent watchmaker (and one of the best-kept secrets on the indie scene). And how can we blame them, as we also did 2 projects with them (MdS1 and MdS4, […] https://monochrome-watches.com/habring2-x-sjx-chrono-felix-perpetual-star-introducing-price/ #sjx #jiaxian #rss #feeds #linksharing #qwibbit

Introducing – The New Norqain Wild ONE Skeleton X-Lite Turquoise At just 45 grams in weight, strap included, the Wild ONE Skeleton X-Lite is Norqain’s most advanced sports watch to date. It weighs next to nothing, but it is also built to withstand a proverbial beating if needed. The Norteq case, as well as the movement’s construction, are designed to withstand impacts of at least […] https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-norqain-wild-one-skeleton-x-lite-turquoise-limited-edition-sports-watch-specs-pics/ #rss #feeds #linksharing #qwibbit

Introducing – Glashütte Original Unveils the New Senator Aventurine Collection Glashütte Original’s Senator collection is largely defined by classic German watchmaking conventions and the brand’s signature Panorama Date. However, the manufacture has also used the Senator to showcase its more artistic side, with hand-painted Meissen porcelain dials. Joining the brand’s Atelier commissions is a new time-only duo of Senator models in precious metal cases with […] https://monochrome-watches.com/glashutte-original-senator-aventurine-art-deco-blue-and-aventurine-art-nouveau-green-introducing-price/ #glashutteoriginal #collection #panoramadate #german #atelier #however #rss #feeds #linksharing #qwibbit

First Look – Bell & Ross Blazes a Red and White Trail with the BR-05 Chrono Snow Rocket Since its introduction in 2020, the Bell & Ross BR-05 Chrono has appeared in quite a few different guises. The Green Steel brought a bright green dial into the mix, as well as mechanical updates. Then there was the A523, created with the Alpine Formula One team, or the Patrouille de France edition. The new […] https://monochrome-watches.com/bell-and-ross-br-05-chrono-snow-rocket-edition-ski-theme-review-price/ #snowrocket #whitetrail #rossblazes #chronosnow #firstlook #bell #alpineformula #greensteel #rss #feeds #linksharing #qwibbit

E.C. Andersson is Back with the Cpt, their Take on a Dress Watch (Sort Of) Last month, the Swedish brand E.C. Andersson caught our attention with the release of the Timepod, a funky square watch with a unique detachable lug system. Zach Weiss and I were both pretty taken with it and even discussed at some length on the podcast. This is a brand that is appealing not just for their quality and design aesthetic, but their unique approach to manufacturing and watchmaking, making many components in-house in their own studio, and sometimes coming up with solutions to problems that don’t actually exist (that’s watchmaking in a nutshell in 2026). Their latest effort, the Cpt, is pitched as something a little more traditional than the Timepod or the Mytilus, the watch that initially made me take notice of the brand. The Cpt is described by E.C. Andersson as “Our take on a dress watch, sort of.” That last clause is doing some heavy lifting. This is a watch that straddles stylistic lines between nautical inspiration and midcentury dress watches but clearly retains E.C. Andersson’s core aesthetic, which at this point is pretty well defined by things like dial texture, and the shape of indices, which are more suggestive and abstract than traditional hour markers. The Cpt comes in a compact 36.5mm case that measures 8.5mm tall, not including the boxed sapphire crystal, another hallmark of the brand. The case is designed to be robust yet elegant, and has a full 100 meters of water resistance. In photos, it doesn’t present as a tool watch, and has a mix of brushed and polished elements that make me think the Cpt could be pretty versatile depending on things like strap pairings and your choice of attire. The Cpt is made in two dial variants, Midnight Blue and Bright Silver. Both feature applied markers that effectively point to the cardinal positions but are elongated to cover a wider expanse of the dial’s perimeter. There’s a minute track just outside of these markers for precision. It’s a simple and relatively minimalist design, but thanks to the nature of the applied markers there still appears to be quite a bit of depth to these dials. E.C. Andersson notes that the Cpt’s components are manufactured by their production partners, which is a shift from the Mytilus and Timepod, which they machine in their own facilities. They do state that regulation of the movement is done in-house (it’s a Miyota 9039 with 42 hours of power reserve). The Cpt is priced at $995, but unfortunately both variants are sold out at the moment. Only 45 pieces in each dial variant were made. Prospective customers are able to sign up on the E.C. Andersson website for notifications of restocks. Images from this post: The post E.C. Andersson is Back with the Cpt, their Take on a Dress Watch (Sort Of) appeared first on Worn & Wound. https://wornandwound.com/e-c-andersson-is-back-with-the-cpt-their-take-on-a-dress-watch-sort-of/ #cpt #andersson #take #sort #both #brightsilver #midnightblue #rss #feeds #linksharing #qwibbit

The Pulsar “Adventurer” 7T62-X084: A Tool Watch Taken to the Next Level I’ve never claimed to be much of an outdoorsman, but it never hurts to keep a few rugged and utilitarian watches in the watch box. Even a leisurely stroll in a local park can warrant the wear of a tool watch; it feels fitting to be prepped for whatever the outdoors may have in store. The Pulsar 7T62-X084 is a watch few have seen and even fewer have owned. I spent hours hunting down any information I could gather in preparation for this deep dive article, quickly realizing this model is in desperate need of a nickname––a canon event in the life of many Seiko watches. I’d like to coin the “Adventurer” moniker in hopes of making future discourse regarding this watch a bit easier to find in forums and on social media. For all the tool watches Seiko and Pulsar have offered over the years, I was shocked to find that no other model has ever borne that nickname. With its fresh new name picked out, let’s take a deep dive into the X084’s many functions and discover why it’s one of the most underrated Pulsar models the company has ever produced. The Adventurer’s History and Variants Because online information on the X084 is incredibly scarce, I’ll use expired auction listings, blogs, and other assorted photographs to build the most comprehensive history I can. Using Seiko/Pulsar’s serial-number coding methods, most, if not all, of the examples I’ve found were manufactured in 2005. For those unaware, the coding formula doesn’t provide enough information regarding the decade, only the last digit of the year. This would mean, upon first glance, one might think this watch was either released in 1995 or 2005. Using the history of the 7T62 movement, which was introduced by Seiko in 2002, it’s clear the X084 was released somewhere around 2005. I can’t find any other examples from ’04, ’06, or any other year for that matter, so I suspect this specific model likely had quite a short run of production. The U.S. and potentially European markets received two variants of the X084 model: one in military green, and the other in black. The Japanese market got the same models but under the Alba branding. They also received an additional blue colorway that is even more rare than its already uncommon counterparts (shown here by a dealer in Indonesia). From what I can tell, these models were offered on the color-matched nylon two-piece band my example has, a color-matched leather bund strap, or a bracelet. For durability’s sake, I think the nylon band is a more suitable pairing. Functionality and Aesthetics Let’s get the elephant out of the room and mention the X084’s massive sizing right off the bat. The main portion of the case measures in at around 43mm, but the eyelet bump-out pushes the sizing to almost 47.5mm in diameter. This isn’t a watch meant for every wrist, but there are many who would be surprised at how easy they can pull it off. Finding replacement bands or bracelets is thankfully a relative breeze because of the watch’s 22mm lug width. I’ve paired mine on a Miltat bracelet in the past, adding even more heft to an already large piece (when you’re already down the bulk rabbit hole, you might as well stay awhile). I find the watch’s overall design to be well executed, especially its symmetry. My only gripe is the static, non-rotating bezel that I will never be a fan of. It makes any watch feel cheaper than it is, regardless of actual price or brand. Thankfully, however, the X084 has plenty more functionality up its substantial sleeves. The 7T62 movement has always been highly touted as a workhorse of the Seiko catalog. Its plastic components are known to wear away over time, but its availability on the used market ensures a movement swap will be easily obtainable to even the most amateur of watch collectors. Getting down to the meat and potatoes of the watch’s specs, the movement offers a calendar, a 60-minute chronograph, and an alarm function. One of my favorite parts of the 7T62 (and predecessor 7T32) is the implementation of two hands for the alarm function. It’s a minor characteristic, but one that makes alarm setting far more fun and precise. The movement’s overall accuracy of +/-15 seconds per month is equally as impressive now as it was when first released. Its application here is more than welcome, as a timepiece made for outdoor escapades requires a trusty movement to power it. Examining the actual case of this model reveals the real fun bits the Adventurer has to offer. That eyelet I mentioned before is something I’ve hardly seen in the watch design space. Though I haven’t found official documentation explaining what its intended use is, a loop to tie a lanyard or paracord is the most probable answer. One Reddit user pointed out the eyelet could be utilized in tandem with the reflective case back to aim light reflections at airplanes in emergency situations––everyone loves a good two-for-one opportunity. Below the crystal sits an inner compass bezel that is rotatable via the crown at 10 o’clock. Perhaps the X084’s most unique design characteristic is the flip-top magnifying lens. It slightly enlarges the dial for easier viewing, though its use in magnifying small print or even starting fires in direct sunlight is what makes it a much-appreciated feature. I’ll admit I don’t plan on sitting stationary for several minutes hoping to catch a piece of paper on fire with this magnifying lens and watch, but hey, the option is there. Buyer’s Guide and Conclusion I highly recommend adding a Pulsar Adventurer 7T62-X084 to your collection if an example is found on offer. At the time of writing, there are four examples listed for under $200 on eBay: three in the green colorway and one in black. The original bands may not be of much importance to every collector, especially with the 22mm lug width, but be on the lookout for the color-matched straps in case they are of any interest. Again, movement-wise, the 7T62 should serve the average wearer quite well with proper upkeep and cleaning. Always be on the lookout for cheap, working Seiko and Pulsar models that utilize the 7T62 movement, as parts and movements are always encouraged to keep on hand. The Adventurer is a watch unlike any other in most any collector’s watch box. Its functionality and aesthetics, paired with its exceptionally low price point compared to similar tool watches of its type, make it an enticing piece to keep an eye out for. I sourced mine years ago in a low-priced eBay listing entitled “Green Pulsar Men’s Watch,” so hope is always out there that another example will pop up for a song as well. Always remember: one man’s basic watch is another man’s prized rarity. The joy of collecting seldom-seen and weird watch models from well-known brands comes from their “if you know, you know-ability.” The X084 is no exception, offering a fantastic value proposition to any collector interested in owning such a utilitarian and unique wristwatch. Images from this post: The post The Pulsar “Adventurer” 7T62-X084: A Tool Watch Taken to the Next Level appeared first on Worn & Wound. https://wornandwound.com/the-pulsar-adventurer-7t62-x084-a-tool-watch-taken-to-the-next-level/ #tool #adventurer #seiko #history #even #rss #feeds #linksharing #qwibbit